Traffic

One of the things I was most nervous about was negotiating the traffic in Vietnam.

Vietnam is a nation of motorbikes. Interestingly, a helmet law just went into effect the day I arrived. Previously, they had tried to institute such a law a few years earlier, but everyone ignored it. This time however it has stuck, largely because the fines are huge and the police can cite you for a violation every 300 yards. According to Bon, our tour leader, the prices for helmets skyrocketed to four times the normal price in the days leading up to the law, but now many are on sale for less than half the usual price. Vietnam may be communist, but they do have a capitalist market!

Anyways, the traffic. The first thing to note is that lane markings and traffic lights are merely suggestions. As are one way signs. There are various subtleties to honking- a rapid succession of honks means I'm passing, or I want to pass you; one quick honk means you're in my way; longer honks mean get out of my way.......or so I think anyways. There is a hierarchy on the road which basically comes down to the bigger vehicle gets the right of way. So in order to cross the street, you must step out into oncoming traffic and walk with a slow steady pace across the road, trusting that the cars and motorbikes will make the adjustments to go around you! Hair raising indeed!

Rush hour is a particular challenge as you can't imagine the sheer number of motorbikes on the road. The beltway has nothing on saigon traffic! However there are traffic guards stationed at some of the busier corners and they will help you cross if you're having trouble. Luckily, Manuel is an officer in the Swiss air force, so we just rely on him to lead us into battle!
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